December 10, 2009
Getaway to Murudeshwar
Our end semester exams were over somewhere in the third week of November and many of us had a couple of days to spend around in college before we were off to home sweet home again. Bored to death we made a plan to visit Murudeshwar and spend a day over there.
Most of the people invited dropped out to finish unfinished business and so that left the four us Shashank,Pratap,Harsh and myself to catch the Mangalore-Madgaon passenger which leaves Mangalore at around 6 in the morning and boarded at Surathkal station. The train wasnt crowded and we made the two and half hour journey to Murudeshwar station quite pleasantly. The temple is 2km from the railway station and one can walk or find a three wheeler to reach the temple.
The temple is by the sea and makes for a wonderful combination. The temple gopuram stands out from quite a distance and makes your neck stretch when you look up at it. We visited the temple and paid our obeisance to the deity Lord Shiva. Then we went outside and beside the temple we saw the recently installed giant statue of Shiva. After spending some time around the temple we decided to explore the beach.
The beach next to the temple was crowded and we walked for some time along the beach to find a safe haven. The beach was dirty and littered. Finally we came to a spot where we found some stretch of sand separated from the beach. We waded through the water and reached the spot. The spot was perfert. It was desolated, clean and heavenly. Even those in our group who had resolved to stay dry got into the water. Though the waters was mentioned to be dangerous we ventured quite far into the sea without any threatening signs. We stayed long and played in the waters oblivious of everything and quite contented.
By 4 we had stretched on the beach, relaxed and left back for the railway station. We caught the same train that we had come in the morning at 5.30pm from the station and returned to Surathkal at 8.30 in the night.
It was a pleasant outing; nothing spectacular but a day well spent.
Few things that one can do :
i) You can hire a boat for Rs4000-5000 for 10-12 people and go to Netrani Island off the coast near Murudeshwar and spend an entire day at the island.
ii) Jog Falls is just 70km from Murudeshwar and it would make a nice 2 day trip (Mangalore-Murudeshwar-Jog Falls-Mangalore)
June 13, 2009
NIGHT TREK AT SKANDAGIRI
I had returned from my college at NITK, Suratkal to Bangalore for the holidays when friends here planned (if thats what we do) for a night trek to Skandagiri. We left in the evening of 22nd May 2009 by the Bangalore-Chikkaballapur train at 6 in the evening at Malleshwaram.
We reached Chikkaballapur in 2 hours and had dinner nearby. To reach the start of the trekking (which is about 7 km from the city) point we hired an auto. The 8 of us were at the papagni matt by 9.30. After some fooling around we started the trek from here. Initially it is a mud track for some distance. After some distance the track turns right and it is here that you need to break up with the mud track and follow the trail upwards. We ambled along at a comfortable pace taking breaks in between and chatting along happily. Though the path upwards wasnt tough it was pitch dark and we had to find our way through the darkness.
After a climb that took us a little over 3 hours we had finally reached the summit. As we had climbed the higher reaches we started to experience windy conditions. By the time we had conquered the summit the weather was turning chilly and many in our group were grateful for the cup of coffee or hot maggi doled out by vendors camping up there.
We selected a place to sleep but in a short duration were unable to bear the cold and had to request for a campfire (40 bucks). The fire died in an hour and we still had 4 hours to kill before dawn. The atmosphere had become misty and the cold was compounded by the fierce winds blowing. Some in the group found shelter in the pitched camps of the vendors while the rest of us tried to catch wink in the cold outside.
Four slow hours passed by and finally light. Wrapped up in shawls, sweaters and standing at the edge as winds blew from down below, with enough force to knock you off, is something only to be experienced. We stayed for an hour and a half at the place relishing the pounding wind and the chilly weather. By 6.30 we left for the downward journey. As we were climbing down the clouds parted for us to catch a glimpse of the sun for the first time in a shade that I’ve never seen in my life below.
Climbing down below and with a wide few I saw one of the most beautiful scenes that i’ve ever chanced upon. Clouds floated along at a level much below where I was and after what seemed a ridiculously long time I realised that I was in a middle of a cloud myself and for the first time understood my 7th standard Geography on what clouds are.
Ideally the path back to the base would have been an hour and a half. But 3 of us trying to find a shortcut strayed off the path and after much ascent and descent reached the base dying of thirst and tired at 12 in the afternoon. But that is another story to be told some time else.
- For those who have their own transport it is a good idea to come to skandagiri at sometime after midnight and start the trek then so that you would have reached the top just before dawn and no problem of having to deal with staying someplace for a few hours.
- Or You can wait at the temple near the base till midnight and start after that.
- There is a temple up at the top which can be used for shelter but the floor sometimes is damp.
- Flashlights are absolutely essential if you are going for the trek at night.
- If you are a little experienced in trekking it is alright to do the trek on your own though you might have to be cautious at a turn or two. (There are a lot of guides available offering to take you to the top)
April 22, 2009
Kumaraparvata
The trek to Kumaraparvata started with the usual hurry that goes with our group. We left for Subramanya in the evening by train from Mangalore at 7.45. The date was 12.02.2009. The train reached Subramanya at 9.45 at night. We planned to halt at the temple for the night and had to hire a jeep to carrry the 8 of us to the temple which is about 12km from the railway station.
As there was no room for us to sleep at the temple or the lodges we slept in the verandah of the temple office. The next morning we woke up early. The timings for the darshan begin at 7 and we were ready by then. After the darshan we had our breakfast and began our trek. It began through a small gully by the side of a restaurant near the temple. After walking for a kilometer began the actual trek that was signalled by a signboard.
From then on started a journey uphill that was pretty challenging from the start itself. In the beginning the path was overshadowed by cover of the trees. After an hour and a half we came out of the shade and continued climbing under a sun that was not too harsh on us. By 12 we had a reached a plateau type region. Here we rested and had our lunch at a solitary home called ‘Bhattara Mane’ (this guy supplies milk to subramanya everyday). After a satisfactory lunch and some rest we left at 2 in the afternoon to continue our trek.
We had gone a little distance when we were stopped by a forest personnel. He charged Rs 115 per person for carrying out the trek. We paid the fee due. After walking for another couple of hours we were feeling really tired and had passed two (false) mountain tops. Along the way we were treated with exquisite views and breathtaking surroundings and feeling that can only be experienced. It was 5 in the evening. The sun was beginning to retreat and we still had to cross another patch of forest cover to reach the peak where we had decided to camp.
Our group had by now split into two. We took the risk and decided to cross the forest. Strange sounds and long shadows threatened as we managed to reach in time to view the quietly exhillarating sunset. The second group also reached just a little after sunset and we had a small campfire where we cooked our Maggi and devoured it. We slept under the clearest skies that I have ever seen in my life (I even chanced upon a shooting star).
The next day we left at about 8 and started climbing down over the other side towards Bidehalli. By 11 we had walked about 7km and rested for a while at a waterfalls. Another 1km from here we reached the forest office on the other side of the mountain. We had to walk 4km from here to Bidehalli to catch the bus to Somwarpet. On the way was a temple which to our luck was serving lunch to people. The only bus from Bidehalli apart from the morning bus is at 4 in the evening. An hours journey from Bidehalli brought us to Somwarpet from where another another hour and a half journey took us to Madikeri. Finally we took a bus from Madikeri back to Mangalore.
Kumaraparvata is a challenging and a delightful trek. You must try it out yourselves to enjoy it.
- For some info the guy from the jeep took Rs.200 for the 8 of us to take us from the railway station to the temple of Subramanya.
- The lunch at Bhattara Mane cost us Rs.50 per person.
January 3, 2009
AGUMBE – ‘in the skies’
This was a one day one night trip to Agumbe. Agumbe is 103 kmfrom mangalore. In Agumbe we visited Kundadri (to see sunrise), jogigundi, barkhana point, vanake abbi and sunset point.
The trip to Agumbe was as unexpected as was thrilling. Till that fateful day on the 8th afternoon we guys (myself suhas, harsh and viney) from NITK, Suratkal had planned to go on a weeklong tour of Kerala. But unexpectedly one of the guys pulled out and on the spur of the moment Rajpal gave this idea of going out somewhere for a day or two as he had to catch a train on the 10th afternoon. So it was that in 2 hours we decided and planned the logistics for the agumbe endeavour. We stuffed one change of clothes and headed out to the bus stop outside the main gate. (anyway in this place the bus stops wherever you put your hand across)
From Suratkal we first went to Udupi which is a journey of about one and a half hour. From there we took a bus to Shimoga and dropped down at Agumbe on the way. We had left Suratkal at about 5pm and reached Agumbe at around 8pm. The journey throughout was pleasant and charming to the eye though we could not look around the winding path up the hill on our latter part of the journey.
We had earlier called up Kasturiakka and booked our accomodation at ‘Doddamane’ which is sort of homestay. The bus stopped for us at Agumbe in front of the house. That night after having a traditional dinner (which included a drink of ‘kashaya’) at the house we visited the Gopalakrishna temple which is about a stones throw from the house we stayed at. The temple is believed to be of 14th century Hoysala architecture. There was some kind of puja going on at the temple and it was all lit up brightly and beautifully by oil lamps. We watched the proceedings for some time and then went out to have a long walk under the brightly lit up night sky.
The next day we all woke up early morning at 5. We had hired an auto the previous day and the fellow took us to Kundadri which is about 22km from Agumbe. It was quite chilly in the morning and we headed in the dark to the hillock(kundadri). At the destination a fascinating sight awaited us. Overlooking the lowlands from our vantage highpoint the view is beyond words to describe. You have to be there to experience the beauty of the sight. We roamed about the place and a few minutes later were greeted by one of the loveliest sunrise i’ve ever seen. That is an experience that is to be treasured for a lifetime. The valleys below us were covered in mist and our guide (the one we had hired to drive us around) told us that in summer the view would look like an ocean with all the waves crashing up and down. We savoured the moment and clicked many photos. Also the spot had an ancient Jain temple and a lake beside it (that stayed at the same water level all the time). We had stayed at Kundadri for about an hour and then we headed back to doddamane to have our breakfast.
After breakfast consisting of poories we headed back in the auto to a place called ‘Barkhana’. On the way we stopped at another place called ‘Jogigundi’. It was basically a small kind of pool with water falling over a huge rock face (in the rainy season). Anyway it was the right place for a relaxing swim. According to folklore a rishi by name ‘jogi’ sat under a tree over the rock that i mentioned above and meditated. To get on top of the rockface there was a cave that led upwards toward it but our guide discouraged from entering it (it is possible to make a journey through it) as there was a lot of water at the time we visited the place. One another feature that was interesting over there was a very tall tree which seemed to challenge the height of my friend ( he is 6′ 5”).
After Jogigundi our guide dropped us at a place from where we had to trek about 3 to 4 km into the jungle to reach the Barkhana viewpoint. Everything was fine for us as we walked through the jungle enjoying the green cover, passing streams and being fun until a group returning from the other side warned us about leeches. From then on all our eyes were trained on our pair of legs and poor Harsh! (he only had his slippers on though in a way that is kind of good) Screaming at false starts and donating some of our blood to the forest dwellers we made our way to the Barkhana viewpoint. The viewpoint consists of a simple platform that gives way to a breathtaking view of the valley below and a pretty long waterfalls (the waterfalls when we saw it was size zero). And also as in the advertisements on this top of the hill, desolate place i got a signal of BSNL (best hai mere liye!!!). Apparently BSNL has a microwave tower in Agumbe. I called up our guide from atop thanks to the signal and he picked us up from the spot he had left us back to Doddamane. It was 1.45 in the afternoon.
In the afternoon we had lunch. Immediately we left to our next destination. It was a place by name Vanake Abbi where there was a waterfall and also a perpetual rainbow in the afternoons (this was the water that supplied water to Udupi). This was another walk more difficult than the one we had done in the morning. The path throughout was tougher with fallen logs and dense growth of shrubs and other vegetation. Most challenging were the leeches. There were hordes of them (pardon my english). The moment you removed one 3 more would have started sucking on your blood. Finally we surrended to them and didnt bother about them. We walked on for more than an hour in the jungle but unfortunately we couldnt find our way after a certain point and had to give up and return back. It was most disappointing.
To round up our visit we visited the sunset point. Unknowingly we climbed up a hill near the sunset point and reached the perimeter of the restricted area of the BSNL microwave tower. At the front gate was a tarred road and it led to a police checkpoint. We fled back the way we had come (along with a foreigner from London who had tagged along with us at the Sunset point). With a icecream in hand we watched the sun set its different hues, shapes making our experience colourful.
We returned to Suratkal by the 7.00 pm Mangalore bus on what rounded off a short but delightful trip.
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- Walking to Jogigundi
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- At Jogigundi
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- Stream on the way to Barkhana
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- View from Barkhana Platform
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- Enroute to ‘Vanake Abbi’
January 2, 2009
BEKAL Fort
It was the beginning of the new semester at our college NITK, Suratkal and with nothing much to do at the college we friends decided to go to Bekal fort which sounded a pretty nice getaway for a day.
So on the 13th of December 2008 five of us Prashanth, Viney, Harsh, Nikhil and myself left at 10pm from our hostel. It was an hours journey from Suratkal to Mangalore and from there we picked up a bus to Kasargod. The journey took us about two and a half hours. At the bus station we packed our lunches coz the bus to Bekal was about to leave. We boarded the bus at 1.30 pm and it was another hours journey to Bekal.
Inside Bekal fort
It was around 2.30 pm when we reached Bekal and it was a short walk from the bus stop to the fort. We had our lunch there itself. After paying a nominal entry fee we went in. The fort consists of a very long perimeter wall with the numerous fortification structures like watchtowers etc. One side of the fort faces the sea. The other side is filled with the view of coconut plantations. There are many platforms jutting out of the fort as a means of look out posts.
At the entrance of Bekal fort
Within the perimeter of the fort renovation was underway and the area was being converted into beautiful gardens. There was also a secret tunnel but its entrance was barred. We walked around the perimeter of the wall looking out at the sights of the sea and making merry. Along the walls there is a small doorway which leads from the fort to the shore outside. We went through it and the rocks, the splashing waves and the imposing fort made for quite an experience. There is also a wall that runs from the port to a post right out on the water.
The fort took us about 2 hours to go around and from there we went to the beach (Bekal beach). The beach was nothing much to talk and the lifeguard over there prevented us from going into the water. After convincing him otherwise we enjoyed for a short while in the water. Other than that the beach was well managed with other facilities which we didnt have time to explore.
To our luck there was a railway station just a few yards away from the beach (of which we were not aware earlier) and at 5.30 there was a scheduled train back to Mangalore. So we boarded the train and were back in Mangalore by 7.30 in the evening.
Bekal fort is an economical, nice one day picnic sort of a spot. The fort in the background of the sea make for a panoramic view and people of all ages can find something pleasing to experience.
If you are planning to go by bus then first, you will need to go to Kasargod (frequent busese are available from Mangalore) and from there go to Bekal. More ideal and comfortable would be to pick up a train from mangalore (trains towards kozhikode, ernakulam etc all have a stop at Bekal) and come back by train also.
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- At the entrance of Bekal fort
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- Inside Bekal fort
December 9, 2008
SAVANDURGA – A rocky abundance
As with all trips that I plan to undertake this too was decided just the night before we left for it. After many people dropped only myself and Arpan were left to go for the planned trip to Savandurga.
We left our house and went to Toll Gate at about 8 in the morning. We had to wait for only a few minutes when the bus to Savandurga (via Magadi) arrived. This was perhaps the only time in my travels that I was able to get transport so conveniently. Otherwise we first had to catch a bus to Magadi and from there hire an auto or find some other transport to reach Savandurga. (Savandurga is 12 km from Magadi and 56km from Bangalore).
Anyway after a somewhat frustating ride we reached Savandurga at 10 am (the seat where I was sitting had no backrest). After learning that the last bus from Savandurga to Bangalore is at 2.30 pm we immediately decided to start the climb. What stood before us was a towering mass of rock and stone. (Savandurga is supposed to be one of the largest monolithic rock in the world)
The path up the hill(!!) is marked by arrows so the way was not difficult to follow. What though was difficult was the climb. The hill is pretty steep and the climb is moderately challenging. There are no steps but just the rock face to climb. At places you can find the remnants of a fort (this was a secondary capital for Magadi rulers) on the way up.
After 2 hours of climbing we reached the summit where an idol of Nandi in an Mantapa is placed. We basked in the sun for some time and savoured the view from this vantage point. We had climbed the Bili Gudda and were able to see the Kari Gudda (another hill beside) which is separated by a valley; a beautiful lake, the Arkavathy river and Savandurga village looking like a toy setting. The breathtaking views down the hill made us feel that the climb was worth the effort.
We had lunch there itself. The descent was fairly quick and in 80 minutes we were back to the base. The time was 1.30 in the afternoon. After sipping coconuts to cool us down and quench our thirst we visted the Laksmi Narasimha temple. There were a lot of devotees and we paid our obeisances to the god and goddess .
Our business there was finished by 2 am. We killed another hour sipping coconuts again, having bhel puri and listening to radio. The bus arrived at 3 and we undertook the journey back home. We reached Bangalore at 5 and completed what seemed a perfectly timed and memorable travel.
Savandurga is ideal for 1 day trip and for those who love to climb and conquer heights. It is advisable to bring your own vehicle. You have to follow the road to Magadi and just before the city you have to take a left turn to go to Savandurga. The place is frequently visited by the people.
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- Resting on the slopes
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- Among the rocks
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- View from the top
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- Pond we found on the way
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- Karigudda in the background
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- Seated on the edge
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- Lakshmi Narasimha temple
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- Savandurga from a distance
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- Myself at the base
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- Another View from the top
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- Arpan at the summit standing next to the Nandi Mantapa
November 27, 2008
Mullayangiri
The trip to Mullayangiri was completely unexpected. My mother was planning to go to chikmagalur to attend a wedding and i was jobless enough at home to tag along. We caught the Shimoga fast passenger train to drop us at Kadur from Bangalore and from there on went to chikmagalur by bus which is about an hours journey.
We had arrived at the wedding hall in the afternoon of the 16th of November even before the bride and the groom’s side had come and so had to spend an entire afternoon with nothing to do. I decided to visit Belur in the meantime. Belur is 26km from Chikmagalur and is a journey of about 40 minutes by bus. The weather was pleasant with rain clouds hovering when i left for Belur. The journey passed through a continuous drizzle of rain. Belur has a fantastic Chennakeshava temple and it was a former capital of the Hoysala empire. The architecture of the temple is marvellous and it is worth to hire a guide to go through the intricacies of the carvings and the architecture.
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- Gopuram of the Chennakeshava temple
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- Belur Chennakeshava temple
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- The Arch at Sarpahadi
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- Mullayangiri
The next day I left in the early morning at about 8am from Chikmagalur to Mullayangiri. The buses from Chikmagalur to Mullayangiri are few and far between. So if your planning to go by bus directly you will have to make sure of the timings. I took a bus from Chikmagalur to a place called Khymera. It is a sort of junction from where Mullayangiri is about 11km. From Khymera I took a drop from an autorickshaw (which was dropping off some stuff to some estate in the hills) to a place called ‘Sarpahadi’ which is the starting point of trekking to Mullayangiri and is 5km from Khymera. There is also a road right to the summit of Mullayangiri.
There is a small arch and steps to indicate the start of the trek. After that there is a trail which leads up to the mountain. The journey took me about 90 minutes and the route was pretty steep and moderately difficult to climb. But the climb was worth the effort and as you climbed higher and higher there awaited a visual treat of the vistas of the mountainside. With change in altitude the view downwards altered radically and was exciting to capture in the eyes. The trek was coming to an end was indicated by a small statue of Lord Ganesha and Nandi under a tree. You could also see a flag fluttering on the summit. Finally there was were 2 caves close to the summit which contained the Shiva linga and with a little daring you could go from cave to the other which were connected. On top of Mullayangiri is a temple dedicated to Lord Shiva and which was under repair at the time I visited it. The view from the top is fantastic to say the least and is quite windy. The moist winds blowing from the valley up the hill reminded me of some high school geography.
The trek up was quite exhausting and also I had to return early to Chikmagalur. So I decided to take the road back to Khymera. Luckily for me I found a kind couple at Mullyangiri. They lived in an estate near Khymbera and dropped me off till Chikmagalur in their jeep as they had some work in the town. On the way down the hill the couple showed me a Shiva temple by the side of the road. It was unique because there was a natural deep sort of well in front of the idol in the temple whose water is used in the temple.
I made it to Chikmagalur by 2.30pm thanks to some good luck. From there my mother and myself returned back to Bangalore by 10pm.
Mullayangiri is certainly a must visit spot and if you love trekking then it is a pleasure. Near Mullayangiri is also Seethalayangiri if you would like to visit. Or if you are ready to spend the night camping then you can start from Mullayangiri and trek upto Bababudangiri which is a 2 day trek.
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